Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River, 1810-1813

Four years after Lewis and Clark stimulated American interest in the far western reaches of the continent, John Jacob Astor, a New York businessman, dispatched an overland expedition to establish a fur-trading post on the Columbia River. A second group traveled by sea aboard the Tonquin, among them Alexander Ross, a clerk in Astor's Pacific Fur Company.

Adventures of the First Settlers is a vivid account of the expedition and its struggles to establish a successful trading venture. Ross details the Tonquin's dangerous voyage and documents the Astorians' painstaking struggles to clear the land and build a new trading post. Their settlement, Astoria, became the first American outpost on the Pacific Slope.

Although the Astorians were aggressive in expanding their presence in the Columbia River country, their enterprise was short-lived. Ross chronicles their competition with the rival North West Company for furs and empire, the colorful and hazardous exploits of the fur trappers, and the eventual transfer of Astoria to the north West Company in the midst of the War of 1812. His detailed descriptions of the Columbia River Indians reveal Ross to be an astute and informed observer.

In a new introduction to a book he calls "one of the charter literary documents for the Pacific Northwest," historian William Robbins considers the relationship between exploration, commerce, and empire in the Astorians' experience.

The OSU Press edition, like the Bison Book edition, omits an appendix containing a Chinook vocabulary and a table of weather conditions at Astoria in 1811.

A version with the Chinook vocab can be found online:

http://user.xmission.com/~drudy/mtman/html/ross/index.html

Chapter I

Introductory remarks -- Grasping views -- Early traders of Canada -- The Hudson's Bay Company -- American fur companies -- Astor's policy -- Russian settlements -- Coasting vessels -- The Pacific Fur Company -- Flattering results -- Oregon territory -- New association -- Mr. Hunt -- Golden prospects -- Proposals accepted -- List of adventurers -- Land party -- Sea party -- The ship Tonquin -- Remarks -- Opinion against opinion -- Observations -- Land expedition departs -- Sea party set off for New York -- Bark canoe -- Spectators -- Canadian voyageurs

Chapter II

The Tonquin sails -- Quarrels on board -- The Captain's character -- Accommodations -- A sudden squall -- Flying fish -- The captain's harshness -- Cape de Verd Islands -- Alarm of fire -- A suspicious sail -- Crossing the line -- Springing a leak -- Short allowance of water -- Immense wave -- The Falkland Islands -- Rocky passage -- Wild fowl -- Port Egmont Bay -- The party on shore -- Mr. Farnham's gray goose -- Old graves renewed -- Epitaphs -- Party left behind -- New dangers -- Mr. Robert Stuart's determined conduct -- Feuds on board -- Cape Horn doubled -- The weather -- Pilot fish -- Trade winds -- Rogue's mess -- Little pilot -- Mouna Roa -- A man overboard -- The mate in irons

Chapter III

Karakakooa Bay -- The sailors desert -- The captain's conduct -- Productions of Owhyhee -- Tocaigh Bay -- Ourourah, the residence of Tammeatameah -- Harbour fees -- Excursion on shore -- The Queen's umbrella -- The King's appearance -- Royal palace and guards -- Arsenal, or royal workshop -- Royal dinner -- His Majesty's fleet -- Morais, or places of public worship -- Sacred or puranee ground tabooed -- Storm -- A sailor left to his fate among the natives -- Parting visit from his Majesty -- His meanness -- Diving of the natives -- Native proas: how made -- Clothing -- Customs and peculiarities -- Character of the women -- White men at the Sandwich Islands -- The King's disposition towards foreigners -- Captain Cook -- Pahooas, or war spears -- A sham fight -- Religion -- Tammeatameah conqueror and king -- Apparent happiness of the natives -- Prophetic hint -- Distressed situation of a boat

Chapter IV

Departure from the Sandwich Islands -- Bad weather -- Live stock destroyed -- Columbia river -- A boat and crew lost -- Captain's conduct towards Mr. Fox -- Mouth of the river -- Bar and breakers -- Cape Disappointment -- Point Adams -- Narrow escape of the long boat -- Sounding the bar -- A boat and crew left to perish -- The ship in the Breakers -- Critical situation -- Melancholy Narrative of Steven Weeks -- Search made for the lost boat, and narrow escape -- Long boat swamped -- Fidelity of the natives -- Preparations for leaving the ship -- Captain Thorn -- The voyage concluded

Chapter V

Preparations for landing -- Site of the new emporium of the west -- Astor's representative -- Hard Work -- Huge trees -- Natives -- Comecomly -- Mode of Felling the trees -- Danger -- Trying scenes -- Three [ix] men killed -- Three wounded -- Party reduced by sickness -- Disaffection -- Conduct of the deputy -- Desertion -- Mr. Astor's policy -- Climate -- Indian rumours -- Comecomly's intrigues and policy -- Trip to the cascades -- Mr. M'Kay and north-west notions -- Anecdote -- Exploring party to the north -- Several persons killed -- Hostile threats of the Indians -- Potatoes and other seeds planted -- New building -- Astoria -- Departure of the ship -- Dangerous situation of the whites -- Great assemblage of Indians -- People uner arms -- Blunderbuss accident -- Alarming moment -- Two strangers arrive -- Mr. Thompson at Astoria -- M'Dougall's policy -- The two great functionaries

Chapter VI

The ten tribes -- Number of warriors -- Their laws -- Chief's arbitrary power -- Dress, games, and arms of the men -- Dress of the women, slaves and basket-making -- Lewdness of the women -- Food, ornaments -- The salmon -- Superstitious customs -- Sturgeon -- Fathomfish -- Roots and berries -- Circulating medium -- Econe, or Good Spirit -- Ecutoch, or Bad Spirt -- Etaminua, or priests -- Keelalles, or doctors -- War canoes -- Diseases -- Winter houses -- Temporary, or Summer houses -- Fleas -- Practice of flattening the head -- Colonization -- Wallamitte -- Cowlitz, or Puget's Sound -- Conclusion

Chapter VII

First expedition into the interior -- Number of the party -- Tongue Point -- Canoe swamped -- Sailing difficulties -- Indian villages -- Cedars -- First night's encampment -- Mount Coffin -- Cowlitz -- Wallamitte -- Columbia Valley -- Point Vancouver Difficulties -- The cascades -- Concourse of Indians -- General appearance of the country -- The portage -- Description of the cascades -- The roll of tobacco -- Pilfering -- Mr. Thompson -- Exchange of men -- The Long Narrows -- Warlike appearance of the Indian cavalry -- Button contract -- Critical situation of the party -- Camp of gamblers -- The Narrows [x] -- Hard work at the carrying place -- A day's work -- Description of the portage -- Number on Indians -- Aspect of the country -- The plains begin -- End of the woods -- Want of sleep -- Demeanour of the Indians

Chapter VIII

Columbia Falls -- A canoe swamped -- Suspicious behaviour of the Indians -- Stratagem -- Umatallow -- Walla-Walla -- Great body of Indians -- Harangues -- Indian ceremonies -- The great forks -- Difference in the waters -- Length of the forks -- The British flag -- Mr. Thompson's design -- Indian ideas -- Salmon -- European articles -- Tummatapam -- Departure from the forks -- Indian honesty -- Eyakema -- Marl-hills -- Dead children -- Superstitions -- Priest's Rapid -- Rattle-snakes -- Appearance of the country -- Kewaugh-chen -- Perilous situation of a canoe -- The two sisters -- The old Indian -- Hunting party -- Horses -- The priest -- Piss-cows -- Sopa -- Great assemblage of Indians -- The comet -- Oakinacken -- Distance from Astoria -- Indian-council -- Resolve to winter -- Some account of the place -- The stolen watch -- The priest dismissed -- Voyage concluded -- The two strangers -- First building -- Division of the party -- Lonely winter -- The lost party -- Indian trade -- Mr. Stuart's adventures

Chapter IX

Anxieties at Astoria -- Indians depart -- A schnooner built -- The Dolly's first trip -- Criminal curiosity -- The powder keg -- The schooner condemned -- Mr. Astor's cargoes -- His policy -- Remarks on the North-West coast -- Unwelcome rumours -- Calpo's statement -- Rumours renewed -- Hard cases -- Joe Lapierre -- Kasiascall's account of the Tonquin -- Strange Indian -- Kasiascall's conduct -- His character -- His design on Astoria -- Remarks

[xi] Chapter X

Land expedition -- Hunt and M'Kenzie -- Montreal recruits -- La Chine -- Devout farewell -- Mackina in 1810 -- Fur Traders of the South -- Frolic parties -- Comparison between the South and North -- Arrival at St. Louis -- Recruiting service -- Yankees -- Canoe-men -- Delays at St. Louis -- Difficulties -- Mr. Miller -- The Missouri -- Canadian voyageurs -- Winter quarters -- Mr. Hunt revisits St. Louis -- M'Kenzie -- Mr. Astor's policy -- The Yankees desert -- Winter quarters broken up -- Rocky Mountains -- Piolot knobs -- New scenes -- Columbia River -- The horses abandoned -- Take to canoes -- The canoes abandoned -- Trappers -- Mr. Miller -- Party on foot -- Hardships -- Starvation -- Conflicting councils -- Gloomy prospects -- Property en cache -- The party divided -- Three men perish -- M'Kenzie's speech -- The arrives at Astoria -- Mr. Crooks and others left behind -- Mr. Hunt's arrival at Astoria -- Voyage concluded

Chapter XI

Doings at Astoria -- Three parties on foot -- Their object -- M'Lellan's resolution -- Hostile attack at the Long Narrows -- Mr. Reed -- Two Indians shot -- Heroic conduct of M'Lellan -- Difficulties adjusted -- Advance of the party -- Remarks -- Arrival at Oakinacken -- Departure again for Astoria -- Scene at Umatallow -- Mr. Crook's adventures and suffering -- Yeck-a-tap-am -- Umatallow left -- Merit rewarded -- Arrival of the party at Astoria -- The ship Beaver there also

Chapter XII

General Meeting of the partners -- Resolutions passed -- Departure of the parties for the interior -- Mr. Clarke -- the cascades -- Wyampam, or the Long Narrows -- Situation of the party -- Loss of time -- Mr. M'Kenzie -- A stroll through the Indian camp -- Mr. Clarke's alarms -- Command transferred -- Reed's rifle recovered -- A robber in irons -- the five shots -- Yeck-a-tap-am rewarded -- Mr. Stuart's departure [xii] for St. Louis -- Second division -- Summer trip to She Whaps -- Boullard and his squaw -- Mr. Stuart's arrival at Oakinacken -- Visits -- Travelling scenes -- A night in the snow -- Jacque and his powder-horn -- Mr. Stuart's account of his journey -- Arrival at Walla Walla

Chapter XIII

Mr. Clarke -- Hard Travelling -- Cox's pilgrimage -- Visit to Spokane -- Trade -- Mr. Pillet -- Mr. Farnham -- Cootanais and Flatheads -- M'Lennan Plunge in the lake -- Adventures -- Outposts -- Catatouch chief -- Curiosity -- Fracas -- Introduction of civilization -- Commotion -- M'Kenzie -- Great Snake River -- Caches robbed -- Canadian wanderers -- Character of the Shahaptains -- Visit to Spokane -- M'Tavish -- Account of the war -- Winter travels -- M'Kenzie at Astoria -- New resolves -- M'Kenzie's return to his post -- Indian chiefs -- Bold enterprize -- Property recovered -- Chiefs and thir horses -- Strategems -- Indians outwitted -- Plotting -- Friendly Island -- Conference -- Marauding propensities -- Treaty of peace -- System changed -- Plentiful market -- The island abandoned -- Arrival at Walla Walla -- Commotions among the savages -- Tummeatapam -- Arrival at Astoria

Chapter XIV

Mr. Stuart -- Snake River -- Trappers -- Joyous meeting -- Trapper's resolution -- Crow Indians' troubles -- Horses change masters -- Mr. Stuart on foot -- M'Lellan left alone -- Hardships of the party -- Famine -- Le Clerc's horrid proposition -- The old bull -- The old horse -- Pilot-knobs -- Winter quarters -- Unwelcome visitors -- Change of quarters -- Spring -- Travelling at random -- An Otto-Indian -- River Platte -- Two traders -- News of the war -- The Missouri -- The old horse given for an old canoe -- St. Louis -- Mr. Astor -- Wallamitte -- Falls -- Scenery -- Habits of the Collap-poh-yea-ass tribes -- Concourse of savages -- M'Dougall's letter - [xiii] M'Kenzie's stratagem -- Indian disappointment -- The ship Beaver -- Coasting voyage -- Mr. Astor's policy -- Captains -- Their instructions -- Mr. Hunt baulked in his plans -- The Boston merchants -- Mr. Astor's conduct -- Difficulties of Mr. Hunt's situation -- The ship Albatross -- All the parties at head-quarters

Chapter XV

Meeting of the partners -- Warm discussion -- M'Kenzie -- Eloquence of the times -- Reasons for dissolving the company -- Dissenting partners converted -- Final resolve -- The deputy's powers -- Departure of the brigade -- A canoe lost -- A man's leg in jeopardy -- Rumours at the narrows -- Snake party -- Rumours renewed -- Tummeatapam's counsel -- Hostile appearance at the forks -- Number of Indians -- Nez Perces fleet -- Fears of the whites -- Indian visit -- Strong guard -- Mr. Clarke -- Relic of the silver goblet -- Mr. Hunt at Astoria -- Face of affairs changed -- Mr. Hunt departs from Astoria -- North-West squadron -- a great Eri duped -- Bill of sale -- Petty manoeuvring -- Rumours of ships -- The Astorians at their post -- Bill signed -- Astoria delivered up -- North-West Company

Chaper XVI

Mr. Franchere -- Comecomly's anxiety -- His report of a sail -- His attachment to the Americans -- Laframboise, the interpreter -- Mr. M'Dougall's visit -- The Racoon sloop-of-war -- Comecomly grows partial to the British flag -- North-West partners -- British officers -- Astoria changed to Fort George -- Captain Black's character -- Mr. Hunt's voyage -- Commodore Porter -- Mr. Hunt leaves the Marquesas -- Arrival at the Sandwich Islands -- Rumours -- The ship Lark -- Eight persons perish -- Columbian affairs -- The property delivered -- No ice -- The people assembled -- Voyage -- The Cascade Banditti -- Two North-West canoes -- North-West affray at the cascades -- Mr. Stuart wounded -- Mr. Keith's conduct -- Preparations for war -- The great expedition -- Conduct of the Cath-le-yach-é-yach Indians -- Expeditions fails -- The effect -- Remarks

[xiv] Chapter XVII

Party to the Wallamitte -- Hunt's voyage concluded -- The brig Pedlar -- M'Dougall suspected -- His character vindicated -- Mr. Hunt's remarks on the late concern -- His liberality -- His farewell address to the clerks -- Final departure from Columbia -- The party for Canada -- Efforts and disappointments -- Snake expedition -- The melancholy story of Pierre Dorion's wife -- Massacre of the Snake party -- Remarks -- A winter in the Blue Mountains -- List of casualties -- Astor's hopes disappointed -- Comment on the late concern

Chapter XVIII

Origin of the Oakinackens -- Religion -- Good Spirit -- Evil Spirit -- Ideas of a future state -- Ceremonies -- End of this world -- Extent of country -- Names and number of tribes -- Warriors -- Population -- Royal family -- the great chief, or Red Fox -- Wild hemp -- Long journeys -- Barter -- Emblem of royalty -- Government -- Indian ideas -- Council of chiefs -- Manners -- Employments -- Plurality of wives -- Brawls -- Dress and clothing -- Stratagems -- A savage in wolf's clothing -- Painted faces and sleek hair

Chapter XIX

Marriage contracts -- National custom -- Exchange of presents -- Customs on the occasion -- Feuds and quarrels -- Tla-quill-augh, or Indian doctor -- His office -- Precarious life -- Mode of paying him -- Manner of treating the sick -- Customs and ceremonies on the occasion -- Hard duty -- Superstitions -- Knowledge of roots and herbs -- Curing wounds -- Diseases, or general complaints -- Gambling -- Tsill-all-a-come, or the national game -- Manner of playing it -- Bets -- Gambling propensities -- Hot baths -- Manner of using them -- On what occasions -- Indian qualifications -- Gymnastic exercise -- Comparison -- General remarks

[xv] Chapter XX

Social habits -- Winter habitations -- Economy of the winter -- Summer employments -- Collecting of food -- fish barriers -- Salmon -- Division of labour -- Roots and berries -- Scenes at the fish camp -- Mode of catching the deer -- Preparation of food -- Furnaces or ovens -- Implements of warfare -- Spampt, how made -- Pine moss -- Bread, how prepared -- Great war-dance -- Manner of fighting -- Treaties of peace -- Scalps -- Slaves -- Funeral ceremonies -- Mode of interment -- Graves -- Superstitions -- Emblems -- Customs -- Mourning -- Punishments -- Sedate habits and docile dispositions

Chapter XXI

Calculation of time -- Singular manner of naming children -- Peculiar modes of address -- Anecdote of an Indian chief -- Indian forbearance -- Conduct of the whites in Indian countries -- Comparison of crime between Indians and whites -- Manner of swaddling infants -- Hardships during infancy -- Savage customs -- Indian constitution -- Chief cause of scanty [Population -- A day's journey -- Calculation of distance -- Rough roads -- Indian ideas -- Social habits -- Some remarks on the system adopted for converting Indians to the Christian Faith

Appendix

Chinook Vocabulary -- Table of the Weather at the Mouth of the Columbia

"Adventures of the First Settlers deserves to be regarded as a fur trade classic. Reading it, we are in the presence of a neglected West fixed between the great captains Lewis and Clark and the well-known beavermen. Ross brings that land and time alive with wit, humor, and passion. We could want no better Guide."